Reliving the Spanish Era in Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar, Bataan
Old Heritage Houses standing on the edge of a canal in Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar.
There's something fascinating about old architecture.
I remember writing a 300-word essay explaining my stand on a question that went, "Should old heritage buildings be kept as they are or demolished to give way for progress?" It sounded like it was an easy question wherein any immediate opinion could easily be formed, but it was not.
If there is any one country that I know is in dire need of progress in terms of physical and cultural attributes, it would be my very own Philippines. From the old tried-and-tested way its elected leaders run the country (which is slowly being modified accordingly, thanks to His Excellency, President Rodrigo R. Duterte) to the way the people cling to outdated modes of transportation like tricycles and pedicabs, I could never resist the urge to compare my country to the others that I've already visited. It's a huge leap to catch up to our economically-developed neighbors like Singapore and Malaysia, but it's a leap that the Philippines has to take.
(Related post: This unique resort in San Fabian, Pangasinan is perfect for your summer getaway!)
On the other hand, there's the fact that old buildings hold many keys that open doors to the past. For instance, there's the case of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World in which one wonder's existence is still being disputed, one is left standing up to this day, and the remaining five have been confirmed to have existed but were subsequently destroyed. In summary: Once upon a time, five great structures towered to the sky as if reaching for the gods, a reflection of all the verities of a bygone era-- and now, all that's left is rubble. This led me to believe that the history of our world has a huge gaping hole that could have possibly once held the secrets of the ancient world.
I find it to be a good thing that the Philippines' rich history is very well-documented. Replicas, reconstructions, and even original old buildings where significant historical events have taken place have been protected and preserved by the Philippine government and set up for the purpose of "educational tourism". Recently, Vigan City in the province of Ilocos Sur won a spot in the New Seven Wonders (City) of the World for its famed and wonderfully-preserved old buildings, old houses, and cobblestone streets. However, there's a new destination in Southern Luzon that is slowly rising to fame as a resort where guests can have the wonderful opportunity of reliving the Philippines during the ancient Spanish colonial period.
(Related post: Explore the beautiful beaches of Subic, Zambales.)
Rougher and drier than a bout of pertussis.
On the morning of May 6, from Pangasinan, we drove for three hours to the province of Bataan where our destination, Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar, awaits. The (almost) one-kilometer road from the highway of Bagac leading to the resort is undeveloped, as seen pictured above.
People are usually familiar with Las Casas as the shooting location for the critically-acclaimed movie Heneral Luna (General Luna), which is about a Filipino General who fought during the Philippine-American War. From a traveler's perspective, though, the resort is a treasure trove of history because of its heavy and consistent theme and its collection of old houses which were, according to a famous Philippine magazine show, uprooted and brought to the site to be restructured. Part of what makes the guests' stay in Las Casas worth the hefty price tag is the Heritage Walk/ Heritage Tour wherein English-speaking guides give brief tours and backgrounds about each house.
A portal to the past.
There was a yurt at the end of the road marking the entrance to the resort where resort guests have to submit their vehicles for visual inspection and confirmation of a reservation. Don't go without making an online or phone reservation.
Registration casa.
The first step upon entry into the resort is to register at an old house where guests will be given electronic key cards for their respective rooms. There were four very regal-looking lamp posts made of concrete in front of the casa.
(Related post: Horseback-riding in the Summer Capital of the Philippines is the perfect way to beat the heat!)
After the registration process came problems with the resort's management of guests waiting to be delivered to their rooms or casas from the parking lot. The system is as follows: guests are made to wait under the heat of the scorching sun with only the shade of a few mango trees for special steel "jeepneys" to take them to their casas. While this sounds simple enough, the fact that there were more visitors than jeepneys and that there was no discernible queue or appointment system (let alone a priority system for guests who are elderly or have little children with them) made waiting very nerve-wracking. A couple more jeepneys, a huge shed or waiting lounge, and a "first come, first served" service for the rides would have made the experience less of a hassle.
Displeased visitors and guests waiting for the complimentary jeepneys to take them to their respective casas.
When we were finally able to scramble our asses up a jeepney, we had an uneventful ten-minute drive to our accommodation, Casa Mexico, which is the farthest and last stop on the route. The man behind the wheel was kind enough to give little tidbits of information about the activities and attractions that the resort has to offer that I was willing to forgive the entire resort for the earlier discomfort.
Actually, the truth is, as I looked around Paseo de Escolta where our casa was located, I was already more than willing to forgive and forget about the whole exhausting ordeal earlier because I just loved what I was seeing! Cobblestone paved the roads that we tread as we walked with resort porters to one section of an old brick building with gorgeous white pillars accented by the blue of the casa doors and windows. The heat carried by the salty sea breeze were all but ignored as we were led to believe that we'd been transported through time into a period where the rich and haughty mingled while the drums of war thundered in the distance.
Our accommodation was located along Paseo de Escolta.
Casa Mexico-- our Executive Suite (Php 17,000 for a maximum of six paying guests).
Room 211 was our welcoming accommodation for the rest of our stay in Las Casas. It is an Executive Suite with two floors, two toilets and shower rooms, and three king-sized beds. It is exactly right next to Napiya Spa, a couple of steps from Panaderya (the resort's bakery), Antiquidades (a souvenir shop), and Fotografia de Escolta (a photo shop), and a couple of meters away from the Batis, the resort's swimming pool inspired by the free-flowing streams where women in the past used to do their washing, bathing-- and gossiping.
The sitting room on the ground floor. It has cable TV and its own bathroom/toilet.
It has its own toilet and shower room!
The Executive Suite has a loft and is good for a maximum of six adults.
What's in the loft?
Complimentary tea and coffee.
Toilet and shower room #2.
A curiosities and souvenirs shop, Antiquidades, and a photo booth, Fotografia de Escolta, are also located on our street.
Napiya Spa, located immediately to the left of our casa.
Watch over all of us, Lord.
Casa Baliuag.
A tableau of Filipino children playing classic outdoor games with their rubber slippers.
A farmer and his water buffalo cool off in the clear water.
After settling in and freshening up from our early morning drive, we eagerly set out to explore and discover the things that the resort had to offer.
(Related post: 15 Things to do in Davao City for First-Time Tourists (Like Me!))
Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar has two swimming pools in its vicinity: one is a rectangular pool exclusively for the use of guests staying at the private casas on one side of the resort and the other is the "batis", the communal one that we had access to in accordance to our type of accommodation.
Pool rules.
The "batis" is the resort's communal pool which is uniquely fashioned after its namesake, a "stream".
The cool and clear water of the batis was a welcome reprieve from the heat of the summer sun beating down on our sunscreen- and insect repellent-coated bodies. Half of the swimming hole was shaded from the sun by the leaves of nearby trees. Wooden panels and big blocks of rocks accentuated the nature-inspired concept of the pool, and the fact that the ocean and the picturesque Hotel de Oriente replica serves as its backdrop makes it a perfect photo opportunity.
Half of Hotel de Oriente can be seen in this picture of the batis.
The beach is also open for guests. There were little to no waves when I took a walk along the shoreline at 2:00 PM, and the water was clean, warm, and clear. The powdery beige sand hid no sharp rocks underneath. For more information about beach games and water activities that the resort has on offer, check out the official website's Leisure & Activities page.
An archway to the beach.
Should guests get tired from swimming, there's a snack shack in front of the batis. It's the only place inside the resort that sells Pinoy pica-pica favorites like deep-fried fish balls, squid balls, and kikiam. Famed Filipino desserts halo-halo, mais con hielo, and sago't gulaman, and native rice cakes like biko, bibingka, and cassava are also sold here. Kids will also surely love the shack's sorbetes, which is a Filipino variant of ice cream that uses coconut milk instead of the usual regular milk.
Light snacks are sold here for when you get tired of swimming.
Snack time! Mais con yelo (Php130.00 per glass) and a plate of bibingka (Php80.00).
My go-to comfort dessert will always be mais con yelo.
2. GO ON A GUIDED/SELF-GUIDED HERITAGE TOUR
The Heritage Tour is one of Las Casas' most prized activities wherein an English-speaking guide will take guests on an audio and visual tour of the old houses and unique hotspots within the resort, unless you prefer to go by yourself/yourselves. This activity comes free for day tour and overnight guests, but you need to register at the Activity Center beforehand.
The schedule for these tours can be found in this page or in this page. Useful information and visitor tips can also be found in the resort's official website's Heritage Tour page. For information and brief descriptions of the old houses featured within the resort, click here.
Tips: Wear clothes that are cool and comfy-- the resort can reach temperatures of up to 38°C in the afternoon. Umbrellas, hats, caps, sunglasses, portable mini-fans, sunblock, and bottled water are your friends here. Wear slip-on shoes because some houses require guests to be barefoot.
Another guided tour is the Hotel de Oriente viewing, but it doesn't come for free. Interested guests need to pay Php150.00 for each checked-in guest (Php200.00 each for day tour participants) at the Activity Center. The schedule for viewing is subject to change but is regularly done every day on 9:00 AM, 11:00 AM, 1:00 PM and 3:00 PM.
Hotel de Oriente.
The inside of Hotel de Oriente. Photo from this link.
Bringing in of outside food and beverages into the resort are strictly forbidden, but there's nothing to worry about because there are many dining establishments inside Las Casas, and an option where an overnight guest can temporarily leave the premises on a pass and eat outside exists. The only aspect about the food in Las Casas where guests are usually taken aback is the outrageous price.
A popular dining option in Las Casas is Cafe Marivent which is inside Hotel de Oriente. It is known for its Filipino-Spanish dishes in a setting that can seat up to 300 people all at once. Cafe Marivent is also where the free breakfast buffet for overnight guests is served.
Tuna Vegetable Salad, Php200.00.
Bagac-style Fried Chicken, Php450.00.
Pancit bihon.
Gabi (taro)- flavored ice cream, a specialty product of the province of Bataan, for Php50.00 per scoop.
Housed inside an old building opposite the Activity Center is Cusina ni Nanay Maria, a rustic restaurant specializing in authentic and native Filipino cuisine. So if you're curious to try dishes such as Sinigang na Bangus sa Bayabas (milkfish and vegetables in a sour guava-based soup), Adobong Lumot (big-fin reef squid stewed in soy sauce and vinegar), and Ginataang Langka (young jackfruit stewed in coconut milk), this is the place for you.
Nanay Maria must be a sweet and hospitable old woman.
Maria Clara Leche flan (Php130.00) with macapuno. Yum!
Gabi (taro) ice cream (top row) (Php50.00 each) and buko salad with cheese (Php150.00) (bottom).
Menu.
For a fee of Php500.00 per person (minimum of four participants, maximum of eight), guests can go on a 30- to 45-minute cruise of Umagol river via a wooden barge the locals call "balsa". Looking at the old houses and buildings and listening to the echoes of the splashing water in narrow canals that resemble Venice's was an all-new kind of experience for me. Since the cruises run from 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM, you might want to go in the afternoon when it's not very hot.
How quaint.
Heritage houses along the banks of the Umagol River.
Old cogon houses, rice paddies, and a church still under construction.
5. GO ON A KALESA RIDE
OR ZIP AROUND THE RESORT IN A BIKE/GOLF CART
The Activity Center at Las Casas Filipinas has a lot of exciting activities on offer to pass away the time. Should you be interested, you may call the folks in the center beforehand and they can organize classic outdoor Filipino games like Agawang Biik/Sisiw/Buko (a rigorous game where players try to grab and keep from other players a central item like a piglet/chick/coconut), Palo Sebo (players try to climb up a greased bamboo pole to reach for the prize at the peak), and Hampas Palayok (Filipino version of a piñata using a clay pot) for your group. To further promote the heritage of classic Filipino games, Las Casas can also teach (or even loan equipment if needed) traditional Pinoy outdoor games like luksong tinik (jumping over a tower made of hands), Chinese garter, and tumbang preso (a game involving a can), and indoor games like sungka, chess, and Game of the Generals, though I don't think guests can take these out of the center.
One popular way of sightseeing within the resort is by way of riding a kalesa, a horse-drawn carriage. It costs Php75.00 per person to ride.
Kalesa rides.
For guests who are looking for a more interactive approach of touring the resort, there are bicycles and golf carts for rent also via the Activity Center. Bicycles cost Php150.00 per hour, and a guide driven golf cart costs Php850.00 for two hours, maximum of three people. There's a different rate for when guests want to operate a golf cart by themselves, plus they need to surrender a Driver's License and a refundable deposit of Php1,500.00.
Caged parrots near the Activity Center.
For more information, visit the official website's Leisure & Activities page.
At a stone platform by the riverbank in front of Casa Hagonoy, young dancers dressed in colorful Filipiñana costumes according to their number gathered at 6:00 in the evening to give a spectacular cultural dance show. It was a first for me to witness the fluidity of Singkil, the breath-catching Sayaw sa Bangko, and the graceful yet quirky movements of Itik-itik; and with the setting sun tinting the skies bright pink serving as the backdrop, the entire experience became more appreciable.
Traditional Filipino dancers in very beautiful costumes!
Itik-itik, a dance that originated from Leyte, has simple steps made to resemble the flapping and strutting of an itik (black duck).
Sayaw sa Bangko, lit. meaning "Dance in a Bench", is a traditional dance from my very own province of Pangasinan. I really enjoyed watching this dance! It had stunts. The benches were stacked on top of one another like a tower. The male dancers then jumped up from one bench to another and then subsequently pulled their lady partners to them.
Finale!
Singkil, a traditional dance from Lanao in Mindanao, is based on the courtship of a prince and a princess. The colorful costumes and elaborate props (bamboo poles, fans, scarves, and parasols) made this number rather entertaining.
Kundiman si Lolo at si Lola, a husband-and-wife duo, serenaded the audience with kundimans (classic Filipino love songs) for a short while. It was a treat to hear classics like Paru-parong Bukid.
Tinikling, the high-intensity Visayan dance, involves dancing over and in-between rhythmically-moving bamboo poles. It is deemed as the National Dance of the Philippines.
At the end of the show, the dancers asked for volunteers from the audience to dance the tinikling with them. The volunteers were then rewarded with a photo opportunity.
7. FEEL ROMANTIC ALL OVER WITH THE MAJESTIC VIEW OF THE SUNSET
La Playa beach is beautiful and perfect in every way. The water is always clean and calm, and the beige-colored sand is fine and powdery. There were minimal rocks and pebbles in the sand, so there's no problem with walking around barefoot except if you don't like it when sand gets in between your toes.
8. GO ON A NIGHTTIME STROLL AND ENJOY A ROMANTIC AL FRESCO DINNER
Everything inside Las Casas looks different during the evening. Sticking faithfully to its theme of an old Spanish settlement, there were no colorful strings of lights hanging from the trees and houses, no tacky music to dampen the mood of wholesome visitors. One the opposite side of the river, one could hear Kundiman si Lola at si Lola continuing where they left off, serenading the lucky diners of Cafe del Rio. On our side of the river, the church could be seen all lit up in the distance but to get there, one would have to pass by La Bella Teodora while trying to resist the inviting smell of tomato-based meat sauce and oven-baked pizzas.
Everything inside Las Casas looks different during the evening. Sticking faithfully to its theme of an old Spanish settlement, there were no colorful strings of lights hanging from the trees and houses, no tacky music to dampen the mood of wholesome visitors. One the opposite side of the river, one could hear Kundiman si Lola at si Lola continuing where they left off, serenading the lucky diners of Cafe del Rio. On our side of the river, the church could be seen all lit up in the distance but to get there, one would have to pass by La Bella Teodora while trying to resist the inviting smell of tomato-based meat sauce and oven-baked pizzas.
At 8:00 in the evening, we found our resistance futile and gave in to the desires of our condescending stomachs. We settled for a table at La Bella Teodora, the resort's Italian restaurant, named after Teodora Alonzo, Dr. Jose Rizal's mother. The setting looked distinctly Italian, though I wouldn't know since I've never gone to Italy before. Romantic violin music played in the background, played by a violinist who I think, to my disappointment, takes unnecessarily long water breaks in between songs. All the same, the ambiance provided for a hearty dining experience-- especially for hopeless romantics like my sister and I.
Looks like a scene straight out of "When in Rome".
I'm not one for cheesiness but-- oh, for heaven's sake, propose to me HERE!
Greek salad, Php470.00. The dressing is just superb!
Complimentary bread.
Squid calamari, Php400.00.
Spaghetti Bolognese, Php520.00.
Seafood Marinara, Php520.00.
Puttanesca, Php520.00.
Sangria for the ladies, wine for the gentlemen. Live violin music for the kids. Perfect.
Tuscany Doña Theresa pizza, Php700.00.
9. FUEL YOURSELF WITH LAS CASAS' FILIPINO BREAKFAST BUFFET
Our room came with free buffet breakfast which is regularly served from 7:00 AM to 10:00 AM in the same Cafe Marivent where we had lunch the day before.
All of the breakfast items on display in the buffet table were Filipino favorites. There was sauteed corned beef hash, chicken tocino, scrambled eggs, baked tomatoes, and fried bangus. The enticing aroma of the garlic sinangag invited diners to come back for more. On the other table, the bread selection included Filipino staple pandesal and white bread with plastic cups of butter and mason jars of jam. Towers of orange juice, pineapple juice, and infused water stood on another table. Reading (and writing) about this buffet spread makes it look really promising-- but, in a word, it was rather unimpressive. Don't get me wrong, the food really tasted good! But although it served its purpose of alleviating our hunger, it wasn't a satisfying culinary experience for me. Maybe it's because I've had my fair share of breakfast buffets that I was expecting something that is worth the high price of our accommodation. More additions to the menu on display would be a good start.
Let me put it this way: my brother blurted out to me, "They don't even have cereal or milk!" Tough luck, buddy, they didn't have my arroz caldo either.
Our room came with free buffet breakfast which is regularly served from 7:00 AM to 10:00 AM in the same Cafe Marivent where we had lunch the day before.
All of the breakfast items on display in the buffet table were Filipino favorites. There was sauteed corned beef hash, chicken tocino, scrambled eggs, baked tomatoes, and fried bangus. The enticing aroma of the garlic sinangag invited diners to come back for more. On the other table, the bread selection included Filipino staple pandesal and white bread with plastic cups of butter and mason jars of jam. Towers of orange juice, pineapple juice, and infused water stood on another table. Reading (and writing) about this buffet spread makes it look really promising-- but, in a word, it was rather unimpressive. Don't get me wrong, the food really tasted good! But although it served its purpose of alleviating our hunger, it wasn't a satisfying culinary experience for me. Maybe it's because I've had my fair share of breakfast buffets that I was expecting something that is worth the high price of our accommodation. More additions to the menu on display would be a good start.
Let me put it this way: my brother blurted out to me, "They don't even have cereal or milk!" Tough luck, buddy, they didn't have my arroz caldo either.
Orange and pineapple juices, and water infused with lime, cucumber, and lemongrass. Go for the water. Aside from it being healthier, I swear tastes really good!
Bread station.
Chili-infused vinegar. It's the perfect sauce for the fried daing na bangus.
Corned beef hash, chicken tocino, and daing na banguus.
Baked tomatoes and scrambled eggs.
Dig in!
10. AND, LASTLY..
WALK AROUND AND BE BLOWN AWAY BY INCREDIBLE FILIPINO-SPANISH ARCHITECTURE
A foolproof formula of mine: the best time to take pictures is early in the morning, when you have the whole place to yourself for the time being. You can take pictures with no worries of capturing people in them, plus it won't be too hot for an outdoor stroll. My technique is to wake at 5:30 in the morning so I can start shooting by six. Depending on my pace, I'd be done at around 11:00 AM tops.
Old houses for exclusive use line the Umagol riverbank as seen from the balcony of Casa Hagonoy.
A beautiful brick private casa.
Casa Terraza, a private casa.
A long line of beachfront casas. I think this is the resort's hotel complex where the single rooms can be found.
The patio up front looks lovely.
I'm impressed at how the water of the canal system is kept clean and free from odor.
Behind the beachfront hotel is the area for the private houses. These houses can accommodate groups as small as 2 people to big groups of up to 16!
The complex has its own lovely stone courtyard.
Just lovely.
Cafe del Rio.
Casa Lemery Batangas.
Casa San Miguel.
So picturesque.
Casa Hagonoy, the inside of which can be toured-- barefoot, of course.
The sitting room of Casa Hagonoy.
Another old house that can be toured is Casa Lubao. This picture was shot from its balcony.
The sitting room of Casa Lubao.
The cobblestone square in front of the Activity Center.
A casa and a tableau of children playing palo sebo.
Luksong baka, a game I used to play as kid.
Casa Quiapo, which is currently an art museum.
A tramvia! It will be fully-operational sometime in the near future.
So, what did I eventually write down in my essay? Am I all up for the demolition of old buildings, or am I for the preservation of the relics of the past?
I took a memo of the resort's thought-provoking slogan, "Pride in the Past. Hope for the Future." I smiled when I realized that I had the same opinion as Las Casas when I wrote about my stand for the latter. The importance of old heritage buildings is attributed to the fact that they serve as living reminders of what we were like in the past, and as long as these reminders exist to be seen and explored by people then we are able to guide ourselves to do the right thing for the future. Think of the past, the present, and the future as a chain binding humanity: our past is a treasure trove of knowledge, so if there is action in the present, there will eventually be progress in the future. If even one of the links in this chain is removed, there will be regrettable consequences.
"Pride in the Past. Hope for the Future."
*Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar
Brgy. Ibaba, Bagac, Bataan, 2107, Philippines
Landline (02) 332-5286, (02) 877-4501, (+632) 332-5338, (02) 355-3032
very nice blog. i went to Las Casas already but didn't notice other areas mentioned in your blog. will definitely look for the casas i missed:) God Bless!
ReplyDeleteDefinitely! it'll be an adventure in itself! :) God bless you, too!
DeleteSuch a detailed blog. Thank you for sharing. Will be at Las Casas next week so this was really helpful.
ReplyDeleteThank you! I hope you had a fun time there! :)
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