Twenty-four Hours in Stratford-Upon-Avon, Shakespeare's Town of Provenance
I had a short lull from my exhausting work schedule sometime in October 2020-- and by short, I meant four days. Too short to indulge in a planned excursion and too long to just spend at home and watch the leaves from the Gingko tree in my front yard fall as they turned the ripest shade of bourbon. Still, I took it as a sign from the heavens for me to take a breather and enjoy the crisp air outside-- and I'm glad I did, as I haven't the wildest idea that a few days later, the UK would enter a national lockdown. I searched for destinations that were near London so that the most that I could spend in it is two days.
An entry from my favorite private travel club Voyage Prive caught my eye, as it was for a night's stay at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Stratford-Upon-Avon and comes with a complimentary pass to nearby Warwick Castle-- all for just £78! I slept on the offer, thinking to book it the following day.
Tip: Ladies and gents, NEVER be as dumb as me. When you see a good offer, don't pass it up. When I woke up the next day, the deal was totally gone and tickets for entry to Warwick castle from its official website were also all sold out. (I'm writing this entry three months from when this happened, and the regret in my heart still stings.) I have considered myself awakened to the harsh reality of travel booking. Nevertheless, I went with Stratford-Upon-Avon as my destination-- and boy, deal or no deal, castle or no castle, I was so glad I pressed on.
Optional: Jump to:
Page 2: My visit to Anne Hathaway's Cottage (closed as per government pandemic protocols) and Holy Trinity Church where Shakespeare's remains currently lie.
26 OCTOBER 2020, 0930 AM
THE SQUARE IN HENLEY STREET
William Shakespeare stands in the center of the square.
The "Jester" statue at the square on Henley Street.
My train from London arrived at Stratford-Upon-Avon at around half past nine in the morning. Due to the current pandemic, I knew I had made a wise decision when I prebooked everything around three days before my trip (and because I had learned from that Voyage Prive dealbreaker, though it was no fault of theirs; I blame no one apart from myself) including all entry tickets, hotel, and transportation tickets. Henley Street, where most of the iconic attractions were located, was around a five-minute walk from the station. Because all the items in my itinerary essentially open at 10AM, I just took a walk around the cobblestone streets and snapped pictures before the horde of tourists could come.
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Stratford-Upon-Avon is a typical medieval town filled with old-world charm!
Stratford-upon-Avon is breathtakingly beautiful! It is definitely filled with old-world Elizabethan charm. Everything screams medieval, and I'm so glad that the town has committed to being a prime tourist destination without having to compromise with modernity by demolishing old buildings and replacing them with new ones.
What a bright and beautiful day!
Sweets on display!
There was. a beautiful, gentle breeze blowing when I snapped this picture.
Shakespeare.
The official Shakespeare's birthplace souvenir shop.
It was wise to come early. Later on in the day, at around 1400 PM, this square will be packed full of tourists and the concept of social distancing disappears.
Stratford-Upon-Avon is also jampacked with shops that are related to the occult and Harry Potter (starting in the early 2000s when the franchise was in full swing).
Shakespeare's old house from the outside.
Where else in the whole of England will you find such a scene?
Henley Street is lined with cafes and bistros where visitors can grab an early bite to eat with a strong cuppa.
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The "Jester".
Something for the younger visitors. I wonder if they sell a Shakespeare bear in here. If so, do they call it Shakesbear?
Yes, I love photographing empty alleyways. I think they're very appealing.
This is the exit of the Shakespeare's Birthplace attraction. It's a book and souvenir shop.
1000 AM
SHAKESPEARE'S BIRTHPLACE
Shakespeare's old house from the outside.
Shakespeare's backyard.
If there was any attraction in Stratford-Upon-Avon that held a treasure trove of information about its most infamous resident, William Shakespeare, it would have to be Shakespeare's Birthplace. I personally don't know much about the bard, apart from him being a very romantic playwright and poet with an unmistakable penchant for tragedy and a manner of inventing words. I have watched and read Romeo and Juliet, his most famous paragon, and know a decent amount of his works. But if you'll initiate a conversation with me about why Iago hates Othello, or what I think will happen on the island once the Italians leave in the Tempest, I will just look at you with a stupid look on my face and pray that something will drag you away from me. Still, Shakespeare's Birthplace seems like a good start for a Shakespearean pilgrimage, as it is a museum, souvenir shop, bookstore, and a collection of tableaus depicting not only the lives of the Shakespeares but also of life in the Elizabethan era in England.
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The entrance to Shakespeare's Birthplace.
Basically, "help your neighbor in need".
As I have previously mentioned, everything on this trip has been prebooked. I had purchased my tickets online via the official website, as the attraction would not accept walk-ins. Even the time of entry to the attraction needs to be prebooked. I was so thrilled to find out that they offered a 20% discount to NHS workers as a sign of appreciation to the frontliners, although they need to present their NHS ID cards upon entry. The ticket cost over-all, including my valid NHS discount, was £6.50. Thank you, Shakespeare's Birthplace Trust!
The first display you'll see inside the museum.
There is a collection of bronze plates hanging in rows on a wall, each one engraved with an iconic scene from each of Shakespeare's plays. This one is of the ever-so-romantic balcony scene from RXJ.
I wanted to touch this display, but I was afraid of catching the 'rona.
The Wallbook of Shakespeare depicts Shakespeare's works with a brief summary and a colored illustration.
Pretty flowers in Shakespeare's house's yard.
Shakespeare's actual house.
Shakespeare's actual house.
One of the (many) bedrooms inside Shakespeare's old house.
The Shakespeare family's kitchen and mess hall. Apparently, the young William had to walk home every day just to have lunch and then walk back to school for his afternoon classes.
The young Shakespeare kids' bedroom. Hey, wait, what is the meaning of this tableau?!
What's interesting in this room is the aged tapestry hanging on the wall.
Ahh, a beautiful garden view.
Apparently, the Shakespeares had a pub ("drinking parlour") in the back part of their house, and it was a steady source of income apart from William's dad's leathercrafting business wherein he sells shoes and bags through a little window in the ground floor of their house.
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1130 AM
MAGIC ALLEY
It's official. Stratford-upon-Avon is a must-visit not just for those who are well-versed in Shakespeare but also for the lovers of the occult and, more predominantly, Harry Potter. In the first two hours of my stay in town, I've seen around four or five shops dedicated to selling spellbooks, love potions, Wiccan candles, and Hogwarts house scarves. But the attraction claiming to be the town's most magical attraction is a shop a few steps away from Henley Street aptly named "Magic Alley" because, well, "Diagon Alley" is already copyrighted.
Magic Alley prides itself on being more than just a shop. It has its own walk-through area named Enchanted Manor Museum which, from reviews that I've read from Tripadvisor, sounds like it's mainly for children, but the real reason why I just had to visit this place is that I heard they sold Butterbeer.
I could taste ginger ale and cream soda, but no hints of butter.
I should have ordered pumpkin juice as well.
Magic Alley.
Even magic can't save you if you don't sanitize.
Crystal balls and wands and some spirit guardian animals.(I'm just kidding; I think they're just simple statues.)
I wonder how much for the rhino head?
Fairy houses!
Drinks menu-- and a little bar where you can sit.
The Butterbeer was kind of average, but I wasn't complaining. It was a lot of fun sipping a cold drink while sitting back to watch the eccentric displays and also being watched back (an eerie-looking jack-o-lantern was looking at me pervertedly, I swear).
1200 PM
SHAKESPAW CAT CAFE @UNION STREET
It was finally time to get some lunch. What I had in mind was nothing fancy-- just a couple of sandwiches, chips, a hot chocolate, and cats.
Yes, cats. Uhm, for petting, of course! And there was no better place to get all of these than the Shakespaw Cat Cafe in Union Street.
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It's a vintage tearoom!
Yes, if Shakespeare was a cat he would definitely look like this.
Shakespaw Cat Cafe bills itself as being the first-ever cat cafe in the Midlands. Their cats, which they call the "stars of the show", are all rescue cats in need of a home except for three permanent ones. To be able to experience the cat cafe, customers need to book a slot beforehand on the official website for an entry fee of £5 per person. Customers need to be mindful, though, that the cafe has certain ground rules. No large groups of more than 6 people and no children less than the age of 10 will be permitted to enter the cafe. Once inside, customers need to be respectful to the cats-- meaning no feeding, no waking them up forcefully nor carrying them, or flash photography. Follow through all of these rules and you'll be entitled to 90 minutes of purrly pawtastic fun (sorry, I know it's bad)!
Juliet (Romeo was downstairs) and Hamlet sleeping like babies on the cat ladder.
Ah, I finally found Romeo lurking around the females' bathroom.
Juliet being a girly cat for ten minutes straight before she caught the unmistakeable scent of chicken-flavored Whiskas.
It's a fake kitty!
This one here's another fake kitty!
This one's a real kitty. Her name's Viola, and she gives zero pawcks (somebody, stop me).
Unicorn hot chocolate, £4.00.
Because a closeup shot is mandatory.
Tuna sandwich with lemon mayonnaise and cucumbers served with salad and crisps, £6.50.
They also have merchandise!
Science says having a cat or being near one is beneficial to overall health. Caring for a cat can improve one's mental health. Petting a cat has been proven to reduce stress levels, and its constant purring helps to also lower high blood pressure. By the way, I'm no scientist, and the most reliable source that I can give you is this infographic.
Image from Intelligent Living.
My experience at Shakespaw Cat Cafe has been average overall. During my visit, nothing really exciting or remarkable happened that I did not choose to finish my 90 minutes. The cafe was a lot different from what I had expected, but it was no fault of theirs since I had actually compared it to my mental image of the cat cafes in Taiwan and Japan. In both countries, there are a dozen more cats and they were actually very friendly and love to sneak up and cuddle with the customers to get attention and adoration. The cats in Shakespaw seemed very distant to the guests; they would run before anyone got to pet them. There should usually be a separate play area for cats and guests to interact apart from the dining area. The items on the menu are usually more cute, elaborate, and cat-themed. When it comes to cat cafes, Asian countries are the pioneers but what Shakespaw lacked in their cats' hospitality it made up for with its pretty interior and charm. Shakespaw is a vintage tearoom, and all of their furniture and fine china were mismatched, floral, and colorful. With all that said, I admit that I smiled and laughed a little at some of the Shakespaw cats' antics.
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1500 PM
STRATFORD BUTTERFLY FARM
Who doesn't love butterflies? They are very pretty creatures with their dainty, colorful wings and delicate little forms. As a kid, you loved chasing them just for the thrill of being close to something so beautiful but as an adult, you start to see them as symbolistic-- perhaps of change, or something that relates deeper to your persona. Either way, it is a whole lot of fun to just walk amongst them in this big dome in Starford-upon-Avon and just enjoy them as they literally are.
Ready to know more about our delicate winged friends.
Fruits for the butterflies.
How many can you spot from this picture?
Mademoiselle.
How many can you spot from this picture? (Hint: there are more than ten!)
A very beautiful busybody.
A caterpillar filling up on nutrients, ready to be a butterfly in time.
Gorgeous wings!
A butterfly with transparent wings! How awesome is that?
I spy with my little eye a butterfly with a little eye!
An Aztec temple decoration.
When you see it..... rest assured that it's harmless because it's fake.
There are birdies inside the house as well-- probably to maintain a well-balanced ecosystem.
There is also a working waterfall inside the butterfly house, its waters cascading into a pond with schools upon schools of overgrown Koi fish.
There are probably hundreds of Koi fish in the pond.
At the end of your tour of the butterfly house, you'll exit through the rainforest-themed shop where these cute animal plushies (as well as hundreds of other beautiful trinkets and items) are up for sale!
1300 PM
EVENING TOWN TOUR
(Items in the itinerary will be highlighted in bold.)
A beautiful view of the River Avon.
Recharged and ready to go exploring, I set off to discover more of what Stratford-upon-Avon had to offer. A few travel guides recommended that there are actually two ways to better get acquainted with the place and appreciate its beauty all the more. The first is to ride the Stratford Big Wheel, so I can admire the town from a bird's eye view; the second way is to get on a boat and do a 30-minute guided cruise of the River Avon. I actually considered doing both options, before I finally decided that maybe walking was the best method to go about town. It didn't take me long to realize that I was right-- not to mention, I managed to save myself around £10 or so.
So calm and serene.
I'll get to Bancroft Gardens if I cross this bridge.
I found myself walking along the banks of the River Avon. I always feel very calm when I am near water. It must be a preference born out of my childhood, as I used to live near the ocean back when I was in the Philippines. Funnily enough, I'm actually not a very good swimmer.
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I'd love to just lean on this stone wall and stare at this view forever.
There's a mini-island with a leaning tree in the middle of the river!
Before crossing Clopton Bridge, I came across the Gower Memorial in Bancroft Gardens. Lord Gower was a former politician and, apparently, a huge Shakespeare patron. Surrounding his memorial statue are figures of key personas from some of Shakespeare's famous plays: Lady Macbeth, Hamlet, Falstaff, and Prince Hal.
The amusing things that you can discover in Stratford do not end with its views. Try to look down into its stone paths and you'll sometimes read something from a Shakespeare script that will put a goofy grin on your face.
On the other side of the bank stands the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. It's such a shame that it's closed due to the national lockdown, but I'm looking forward to its reopening this year in May when the government will finally ease its lockdown measures.
The Royal Shakespeare Theatre, Stratford-upon-Avon.
Straying further northwest from the banks of the River Avon towards the town center, I came across a few relevant attractions that were closed to the public due to the aforementioned national lockdown. Had they been open, they could have introduced more of William Shakespeare to its tourists.
Shakespeare's Schoolroom & Guildhall. You can also see part of the Guild Chapel, but it's being refurbished and was also closed to visitors.
Shakespeare's Schoolroom & Guildhall.
One of the gates to Shakespeare's New Place, which was Shakespeare's second house in Stratford until he passed away in 1616.
The Stratford Big Wheel.
As I walked along the river bank, I watched as the sky changed from bright and energizing blue to a warm, vivid orange. Crunchy autumn foliage had woven itself into the delicate, moist grass. As did everybody else, I walked at a slow and relaxed pace. It was a welcome change from the rat race that I had to endure while I was in the city. It was exactly what I needed.
At the backdrop is the Holy Trinity Church where Shakespeare's remains currently rest.
After a long and exciting day, I tucked into my starter platter at The Windmill. (Yes, it is supposed to be a sharing platter, but I felt like I deserved to eat for two for being a good wanderer).
Very cozy interior at The Windmill pub.
Yes, I finished the whole thing at the bat of an eyelash. Those hot wings were GOOD!
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